Many people assume they know how to build a fence correctly because they know to place the fence posts in the ground, add rails, and add slats. The key, they believe is keeping the whole thing level. That is important, but there are little known tips that can help you build a fence that looks better and lasts longer.
Begin by digging holes every 8 feet using posthole diggers. These will provide the anchor locations for your 4"x4"x 8' treated fence posts. Dig each hole two foot deep. Here's the secret to creating a fencepost that withstands the tests of time: Use the posthole digger to dig at an angle at the bottom of each hole. Create a ball shaped anchor that, when filled with concrete, will provide a stable, sturdy fence post.
Before pouring concrete around your posts, they must be treated with black roof tar. Wood doesn't stick to concrete, therefore, in order to create a surface that will bond, pain the bottom two feet of the fence post with tar. Not only will this enable the post and concrete to bond, it will also keep the fencepost from rotting.
Allow leveled and concrete set posts a day to dry before you start nailing them. The quickest way to knock posts out of level is to nail fence slats to them before the concrete has had time to set.
The most secure fence that will last for years is one made of three rails. Lay the top rail on top of the fencepost horizontally. Don't allow fence slats to extend any more than 8" above the top and bottom rails. Place the middle and bottom rail vertically in order to prevent warping. This will also make your fence stronger, and it will look better.
There is a danger to your fence of which few people are aware. That is the linger factor. When water runs down the face of the wood and lingers on the bottom lip it can be absorbed and rot the wood. This is the same reason why fascia boards are easily rotted and warped. Coating the top and bottom lip will prevent lingering water from ruining your fence.
Begin by digging holes every 8 feet using posthole diggers. These will provide the anchor locations for your 4"x4"x 8' treated fence posts. Dig each hole two foot deep. Here's the secret to creating a fencepost that withstands the tests of time: Use the posthole digger to dig at an angle at the bottom of each hole. Create a ball shaped anchor that, when filled with concrete, will provide a stable, sturdy fence post.
Before pouring concrete around your posts, they must be treated with black roof tar. Wood doesn't stick to concrete, therefore, in order to create a surface that will bond, pain the bottom two feet of the fence post with tar. Not only will this enable the post and concrete to bond, it will also keep the fencepost from rotting.
Allow leveled and concrete set posts a day to dry before you start nailing them. The quickest way to knock posts out of level is to nail fence slats to them before the concrete has had time to set.
The most secure fence that will last for years is one made of three rails. Lay the top rail on top of the fencepost horizontally. Don't allow fence slats to extend any more than 8" above the top and bottom rails. Place the middle and bottom rail vertically in order to prevent warping. This will also make your fence stronger, and it will look better.
There is a danger to your fence of which few people are aware. That is the linger factor. When water runs down the face of the wood and lingers on the bottom lip it can be absorbed and rot the wood. This is the same reason why fascia boards are easily rotted and warped. Coating the top and bottom lip will prevent lingering water from ruining your fence.
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Looking for a DIY fence building guide? Visit diyfencebuildingguide.info for more information and tips to building a good fence. Also, read more information ontips to build fences.
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