Out on the fringes of Europe, nearly as far as you can go southwest and still be in Europe - without falling off into the Atlantic - Lisbon is often overlooked among those who presume to rank the best European cities. Yes, it lacks the iconic landmarks; its cuisine and wine are often considered second fiddle; and it just doesn't have that cool pizzazz factor, like a Paris, Rome or Berlin.
And I say in response to that, thankfully! It has been since the mid-70s that I have been coming to Lisbon. Truly one of its loveliest qualities is the otherwise incomprehensible relative scarcity of tourists. It's one of the best features of the place. Though, I guess, an almost perfect climate helps, too.
It is the most crime-free capital city in Europe. And that only further heightens its pleasure as one of the great walker's towns. And this is despite the winding, hilly streets, with their constantly, unexpected, stunning sea vistas around every next corner.
Sure, the cuisine lacks the fanfare of Greek, Italian or French. Don't let PR mislead you, though. Portuguese cooking is delicious and Lisbon is the place to experience it. If you love sea food you're in for a great treat. Also, if you underestimate the wine, you'll be making a big mistake. Notwithstanding a tradition of Portuguese export wine not being so exceptional, the domestically available vintages are delightful. Even an inexpensive glass from the most out of the way, sawdust on the floor, wine bar offers perfect a accent to the proceedings. And the port! Have you ever had white port? The coffee is fantastic, too. Lisbon should be famous for its cafes!
Lisbon provides all that classic European cultural stuff we've come to expect: it has cathedrals, museums, galleries, regal town squares and impressive architecture. And, if you get a hankering for the beach, which other great European city offers anything like the Costa da Caparica? Just a short trip south of town brings you to its 19 ruggedly beautiful, sandy beaches. There is easy access to them all, along a cute little railway that travels their length, dropping you off at which ever beach you'd like. (Try that in Paris.)
But, while Lisbon is certainly a wonderful place to visit, I especially urge it upon those who can manage longer stays. The professional sabbatical, the longer vacation when you're inspired to stay put and get to know the rhythms of a place, an ex-pat life, or if you want to write your great novel, when you need an inspirational respite, I'd say go to Lisbon.
Compared to the rest of Europe it is - as it has been since I started going - quite a bit less expensive. It is more expensive than it was back in the 70s, but in equivalent dollars not as much more as you might think.
Should you have the wisdom to take my advice and consider an extended sojourn in Lisbon it will be helpful to be familiar with the neighborhoods. You do after all want to choose the one that will provide you the best experience, in tune with your own personal needs and moods. Below, check out some of my favorite ones.
The best place to start is my personal favorite, Alfama. It is the geographic and architectural legacy of the original fishing village from which Lisbon grew. That village sensibility remains and is felt everywhere in the neighborhood, amid its charming, winding medieval streets, with the castle constantly looming behind and the grand vistas over the deep blue sea. The housing stock shows the wear of time, no doubt. There are though increasing numbers of lovely renovations becoming available, and nowhere in town will you get a better deal on them than in Alfama.
If you're a party animal type, or just an all purpose bohemian, Bairro Alto might be exactly what you'd be looking for. This happening district is packed full of characters with character and sports a wealth of excellent restaurants, trendy wine bars, popular dance clubs and all the night life you could want. It's an exciting and totally happening place. On the other hand, if you're one of those people who actually need peace and quiet to sleep, this probably isn't the best choice. How about a compromise, though? If you groove to the vibe, but need a little more night time peace, try the Bica and Santa Catarina neighborhoods. They're just a bit down the hill: still real close, with the same vibe, but noticeably less hectic.
Somewhat further north, a bit away from the action, is Principe Real. Formerly known as the antiques and gay part of town, this area has been rapidly turning into a hip locale for young professionals. The rental prices are higher, but it is very tranquil and packed with lush gardens and charming mansions.
Also recommended for those who don't mind paying a little more in rent for a little peace and charm is the lovely Santos district. Its riverside location provides it with oodles of cache. The artsy types might also like to know that Santos has become a bit of a design hub in Lisbon. It is though a relatively discreet notoriety and won't intrude much upon your enjoyment of this quaint residential area with its high quality housing.
So, whatever your preferences, the wild or the sedate, there are some options to suit your taste. Rest assured, whatever your preference, Lisbon has it. So, if you have the chance, don't miss your chance to experience what remains among the most affordable treasures among the best European cities.
And I say in response to that, thankfully! It has been since the mid-70s that I have been coming to Lisbon. Truly one of its loveliest qualities is the otherwise incomprehensible relative scarcity of tourists. It's one of the best features of the place. Though, I guess, an almost perfect climate helps, too.
It is the most crime-free capital city in Europe. And that only further heightens its pleasure as one of the great walker's towns. And this is despite the winding, hilly streets, with their constantly, unexpected, stunning sea vistas around every next corner.
Sure, the cuisine lacks the fanfare of Greek, Italian or French. Don't let PR mislead you, though. Portuguese cooking is delicious and Lisbon is the place to experience it. If you love sea food you're in for a great treat. Also, if you underestimate the wine, you'll be making a big mistake. Notwithstanding a tradition of Portuguese export wine not being so exceptional, the domestically available vintages are delightful. Even an inexpensive glass from the most out of the way, sawdust on the floor, wine bar offers perfect a accent to the proceedings. And the port! Have you ever had white port? The coffee is fantastic, too. Lisbon should be famous for its cafes!
Lisbon provides all that classic European cultural stuff we've come to expect: it has cathedrals, museums, galleries, regal town squares and impressive architecture. And, if you get a hankering for the beach, which other great European city offers anything like the Costa da Caparica? Just a short trip south of town brings you to its 19 ruggedly beautiful, sandy beaches. There is easy access to them all, along a cute little railway that travels their length, dropping you off at which ever beach you'd like. (Try that in Paris.)
But, while Lisbon is certainly a wonderful place to visit, I especially urge it upon those who can manage longer stays. The professional sabbatical, the longer vacation when you're inspired to stay put and get to know the rhythms of a place, an ex-pat life, or if you want to write your great novel, when you need an inspirational respite, I'd say go to Lisbon.
Compared to the rest of Europe it is - as it has been since I started going - quite a bit less expensive. It is more expensive than it was back in the 70s, but in equivalent dollars not as much more as you might think.
Should you have the wisdom to take my advice and consider an extended sojourn in Lisbon it will be helpful to be familiar with the neighborhoods. You do after all want to choose the one that will provide you the best experience, in tune with your own personal needs and moods. Below, check out some of my favorite ones.
The best place to start is my personal favorite, Alfama. It is the geographic and architectural legacy of the original fishing village from which Lisbon grew. That village sensibility remains and is felt everywhere in the neighborhood, amid its charming, winding medieval streets, with the castle constantly looming behind and the grand vistas over the deep blue sea. The housing stock shows the wear of time, no doubt. There are though increasing numbers of lovely renovations becoming available, and nowhere in town will you get a better deal on them than in Alfama.
If you're a party animal type, or just an all purpose bohemian, Bairro Alto might be exactly what you'd be looking for. This happening district is packed full of characters with character and sports a wealth of excellent restaurants, trendy wine bars, popular dance clubs and all the night life you could want. It's an exciting and totally happening place. On the other hand, if you're one of those people who actually need peace and quiet to sleep, this probably isn't the best choice. How about a compromise, though? If you groove to the vibe, but need a little more night time peace, try the Bica and Santa Catarina neighborhoods. They're just a bit down the hill: still real close, with the same vibe, but noticeably less hectic.
Somewhat further north, a bit away from the action, is Principe Real. Formerly known as the antiques and gay part of town, this area has been rapidly turning into a hip locale for young professionals. The rental prices are higher, but it is very tranquil and packed with lush gardens and charming mansions.
Also recommended for those who don't mind paying a little more in rent for a little peace and charm is the lovely Santos district. Its riverside location provides it with oodles of cache. The artsy types might also like to know that Santos has become a bit of a design hub in Lisbon. It is though a relatively discreet notoriety and won't intrude much upon your enjoyment of this quaint residential area with its high quality housing.
So, whatever your preferences, the wild or the sedate, there are some options to suit your taste. Rest assured, whatever your preference, Lisbon has it. So, if you have the chance, don't miss your chance to experience what remains among the most affordable treasures among the best European cities.
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